JET JWSS-18B#
The scroll saw is a great tool for when it comes to cutting thin materials or needing to make complex cuts
The thin blade of a scroll saw will make quick work through soft and thin material.
The blade can also be fished through holes to make internal cuts.
The scroll saw is operated via foot pedal to control speed of the blade.
Prerequisites for Use#
Safety Notices#
Note
PLEASE READ ALL SAFETY NOTICES BEFORE CONTINUING
Don't force material into blade
Watch where fingers are relatively to blade
Lower guard blade to rest on top of material
Wear short sleeves or roll up long sleeves
Secure loose clothing
Tie up and tuck in long hair
Remove lanyards, jewelry, gloves, etc.
Safety glasses mandatory.
Do not cut PVC or other fragile plastic.
Installing a Blade#
- Turn off saw.
- Insert lower blade holder into hole in side panel for leverage, and loosen knob. See Figure 9-2.
- Slide blade into holder deep enough to gain sufficient clamping, but not all the way which can result in blade being too short for sufficient gripping by upper guide. Make sure blade teeth point down, toward the blade holder. Tighten blade holder knob.
Note
If the blade holder set screw is backed out, turn it in with a 3mm hex wrench until it touches the tip of the knob when knob is tightened down. You may need to stabilize the blade holder with a 10mm wrench on the flats while doing this. Figure 9-2: Installing blade into holder
- Flip tension lever (D, Figure 9-3) upward to release guide.
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Guide blade up through table slot and push blade holder into lower blade chuck (E). ~
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Push top end of blade into upper guide (F), making sure it rests between the contact points of guide set screws, and against the back stop.
- Push down tension lever (D) to clamp blade. Do not over-tension blade; this can result in blade breakage or premature wear to clamping surfaces.
- Check that blade teeth point forward and down toward table. Figure 9-3: installing blade into guides 13
- Try moving blade by hand to make sure it is secure. Pluck the blade with your finger, as you would a guitar string – it should emit a clear note if properly tensioned.
Arm Tilt Adjustment#
The table remains stationary, so the operator’s hands can remain in the same comfortable position, with no risk of the workpiece sliding off the table. The arm can be tilted up to 45-degrees left or right for beveled cuts, which are frequently used in projects such as marquetry and intarsia. (Note: Remove dust port to obtain full 45° tilt to left.) Refer to Figure 9-1.
- Loosen lock handle (A).
- Make sure upper guard and blower nozzle positions will not conflict with table.
- Rotate handle (B) to desired angle. Preset stops are available at 90°, 45°, 30° and 22.5°, left and right. Push detent plunger (C) while rotating handle (B) until plunger engages hole.
- Tighten lock handle (A) and release plunger (C).
Lock handle (A) is adjustable to prevent obstruction when in angled position: Pull out handle and rotate on pin, then release, making sure it reseats on pin.
Material Hold Down Adjustment#
- Adjust material hold-down as close to workpiece as possible without impeding workpiece movement.
- For vertical adjustment, loosen knob (H, Figure 9-7) and slide hold-down to position. Tighten knob.
- For forward/back movement and angling to table, loosen socket head screw (J) and adjust. Tighten screw.
Note
If the blade breaks, get a Maker Mentor or Staff to replace it for you.
In-Person Competency Check#
- Grab a scrap piece of wood
- Adjust material hold down foot
- Sketch a complex line on material
- Follow along drawn path